Heading Back to Ushuaia – February 24

We are in the Drake Passage heading back to Ushuaia for the last time this season. Once we drop the passengers, the ship makes a crossing to Europe and will spend the summer in Europe and the Arctic. We are having the calmest Drake crossing yet - I don't even feel like the ship is moving. It is amazing. I have been busy wrapping things up on the ship. I spent the entire day yesterday working on the end of trip slide show so that I could have the day free today to pack and enjoy the ship. On our first night of the crossing, we had a farewell staff party. We started it with a BBQ on the back deck with just the expedition staff and moved to the crew mess for another dance party. It was great.

I have attached a photo of the staff so you can put some faces to names.


From the left: Chris, Me, Russell, Carrie, Tony, Louis, Rick (in the back), Mick, George, Cheli, and Jim. Trish (blue jacket) and Jene (sunglasses) are in the front.

Petermann Island & Palmer Station – February 22

Today was our last day in the Antarctic and it was a great day. We started furthest south at Petermann Island and ended at Palmer Station in Arthur Harbor. Each ship gets one visit per year to Palmer Station (a US research station), and this was our time. All of the staff got a chance to go ashore and do the tour (and shop in the gift shop!). It was very interesting and the people were really nice. There were about 60 people at the station, and about 30 of them spend the winter. The station was surrounded by glaciers and there was a lot of ice in the area with some huge icebergs. I have attached a photo of a zodiac next to a large iceberg for some perspective.

During the afternoon, because of the timing of the groups going ashore, I had about an hour to play on my own in the zodiac. It was amazing, especially because it was our last landing of the season. Being alone in the zodiac is wonderful, and I got to do a lot of exploring. I found a wallow (group) of Elephant Seals and spent some time watching a Crabeater Seal on an iceberg. I also floated around in the brash ice and wondered what it would be like to see the area in the winter frozen in. All in all, I took the opportunity to reflect on my experience here. It truly is a magical place with a pull that I can not describe. The other naturalists speak of becoming addicted to Antarctica - I now understand.


Massive Icebergs in Arthur Harbor

Neko Harbor – February 21

This afternoon we arrived at Neko Harbor for our continental landing. The sun was out and it actually felt warm after the cold days we have been having. I was positioned on the beach near a Weddell Seal and some Gentoo Penguins. On our way into the beach we spotted some Minke Whales in the bay. After about an hour on shore, we decided to do a zodiac cruise in the Harbor. It was amazing. There were about 6 or 8 Minke Whales and they were very curious and active. Now if any of you have ever seen a Minke Whale, you will know that they have a reputation for being "slinky Minke's" since they do not hang around for long. Well, these were different. Some came very close to the zodiacs and a few were even doing half breaches! We also saw a number of Crabeater and Weddell Seals on the ice. It was a great cruise and we ended up spending a few hours on the water. Because of that, we did not do our zodiac cruise in Paradise Bay; instead we viewed the area from the ship. I have attached a photo of the ship, because I don't think I have done that yet.


Clipper Adventurer in Neko Harbor

Cuverville – February 21

This morning we stopped at Cuverville Island, the largest Gentoo Penguin colony that we visit. The weather has gotten very cold and I definitely feel like I am in Antarctica now. The wind was pretty calm though by the island, which was a welcome break from the 40 knot winds we awoke to. I got to spend some time ashore with the penguins and had a few more very close encounters. The chicks are so curious that they just come up to you when you sit down. And all of the chicks are so adorable right now in their various stages of molting. I have attached two photos of molting chicks - some of the hairdos are hilarious. I have also attached a photo of me with the penguins. I don't think you can have too many of these kind of photos. I will definitely miss my new penguin friends when I leave here. This afternoon we are headed to Neko Harbor for our continental landing and then this evening we have a cruise planned for Paradise Bay.


Molting Chinstrap Penguin


Gentoo Penguin with mohawk


Me and all my new friends

Amazing Wildlife Show – February 20

Today we have done so much that I do not even know where to begin. I am going to try and touch on the highlights as I can barely keep my eyes open. I have just returned to my cabin after finishing my work for the day and it is around 10:15pm. I was ready to go this morning at 6:00am but the landing at Baily Head was cancelled due to high winds. I feel lucky that we were able to go there the past two cruises, as it is a very difficult landing.

The morning was rather uneventful. We visited Whalers Bay and Pendulum Cove, both at Deception Island. The best part for me was being able to drive the zodiac from Whalers Bay to Pendulum Cove - about a 15 minute zodiac ride. The weather was just right for it. The passengers had a chance to swim, and no, I never did participate. The water temperature this time was in the 30's and there was not much thermal action. After swimming, we give the passengers, both those who swam and those who didn't, a certificate of achievement. The certificate for the spectators reads,

This certifies that on the twentieth day of February, in the year Two Thousand and Six, (insert name), earned the respect of the entire Expedition Staff. In the face of temptation and the siren voices of the voluptuous seals of the notorious Deception Island, you showed courage of the highest quality and determination in faring up to a challenge and conquering it. While lesser mortals cavorted in the steamy waters of the Antarctic, you stood your ground and steadfastly refused to take your clothes off and make a fool of yourself. We salute you. And we are proud to say we made the same decision ourselves.

This afternoon we visited Hannah Point, one of my favorite stops of the entire trip. Hannah Point is densely packed with Gentoo and Chinstrap Penguins, as well as Elephant Seals. I had an opportunity first to walk around the island and explore. I can not convey how much is there. You are constantly giving penguins the right of way, and seeing all the elephant seals sitting there molting is not only quite a sight, but also a smell that I will not soon forget. I am actually getting used to the penguin guano smell, which is good, since it is on everything I own.

The highlight of the afternoon was seeing a Leopard Seal feed on a penguin. In the time we were there, three penguins were taken by this one (maybe two) Leopard Seals. For the third one, I was able to swap zodiacs with Mick and go and watch. My photos do not do it justice, and reinforce that I am still very much an amateur photographer. At first, my photos were coming out all blurry, but then Cheli gave me a tip and I finally got a few. The Leopard Seal basically played with the penguin (alive) for a long time. It would let the penguin swim away and then catch it again, sometimes tossing it into the air or taking it underwater. Then it started flicking it around, eventually biting its head off. Ultimately, the Leopard Seal is able to skin the animal and turn it inside out. Pretty amazing. I have attached two photos of my own (even though Mick's are better, I thought I'd finally put some of my own photos back on). The first is of the penguin, still alive, in the Leopard Seal's mouth. The second shows the dead penguin in the background and the sharp teeth of the Leopard Seal. It is lunging out of the water at the gulls that were trying to get a free meal. I thought at one point, one of the gulls was going to be lunch also. These Leopard Seals are mean, and sometimes even try and bite the zodiacs.


The Leopard Seal plays with his prey, a Gentoo Penguin


The sharp teeth of the Leopard Seal

So we all thought the day was over as we headed back to shore. But during recap, the Captain announced that there were humpback whales next to the ship. Of course, sprinting as fast as I could (with a quick camera stop) I headed to the bridge. There were about 5 or 6 animals, all feeding at the surface. We got great looks at tail flukes, flippers and even the huge open mouths of the humpbacks. They crisscrossed the bow a few times to give us the most amazing views. I took some photos, but my fingers froze solid and I was forced to head indoors as I could barely operate my camera! The photos came out ok, but this event was more about the watching, not the photos. What a great way to end an already great day.

Emperor Penguin!!! – February 19

Oh my gosh!! We have seen an Emperor Penguin!! I cannot emphasize how rare this is. It was a juvenile Emperor, full grown, but did not have its full coloration. Full grown they are about 3 ½ feet tall. This one floated up on an ice floe, which is the only way that we would have an opportunity to see one. Except for Tony, the entire staff has never seen one. Pretty special. Everyone was jumping up and down (and sliding around) to get a good look at it. I still can't wipe the grin off of my face. I didn't have a good lens on my camera, so this photo is compliments of Trisha Strode, the cruise director.


Emperor Penguin

Paulet Island - February 19th

This morning we awoke to a very windy, blizzard like day, and the temperature was around 34 degrees (before wind chill). It finally feels like Antarctica! We spent the morning sailing through the Antarctic Sound, viewing massive tabular icebergs. We arrived at Paulet Island around 9am and began our zodiac operations in the wind and snow. The passengers had a great time on the island, viewing fur seals and penguins all covered in snow. The photos are very funny, with both the humans and the animals all dusted in white. The photo I have attached gives you a little idea of the wind and snow - you can see some of the passengers on shore behind me. The Captain said that we had gusts of 50-60 knots and sustained winds of around 40 knots. I'm getting good at driving zodiacs in the wind. I remember my first week when those kinds of gusts made me nervous; now they thrill me.


Fun in the Snow

Elephant Island - February 18th

After a very calm Drake Passage we arrived at Point Wild, on Elephant Island. It seems that every time that we visit Elephant Island it is foggy. I think it adds to the mystery of the place. It just seems fitting to have the island shrouded in fog and mist. Despite the large swells and fog, we were determined to get off the ship and do a zodiac cruise. Disembarking the passengers was eventful! The swell was taking the zodiacs up over the platform and then down - it was difficult to hold the zodiac against the side gate, and even more difficult to hold the zodiac AND get passengers into the boat. I have attached a photo, taken again by Mick (he is becoming the blog official photographer!), showing Chris loading his zodiac. Fun fun! I had the fun of having a woman in my zodiac who can not even balance to walk through the lounge on the ship.needless to say it took almost 5 minutes to get her into the zodiac and then another 5 minutes to get her out. At one point we thought we might need to get the crane to hoist her out of the zodiac!


Loading the zodiacs in a swell at Point Wild

Once we were safe and sound in the zodiacs, the cruise was great. We had wonderful views of the chinstrap penguins, fur seals, ice and even a leopard seal. However, we did not have wonderful views of the ship. The Captain said to all of us as we left the ship, "stay close to land, and don't get lost". I found the GPS to be helpful, and still took a compass bearing just in case. My passengers didn't appreciate my lost in the fog jokes, even though I thought they were funny. I have attached a photo of my zodiac in the fog. I think the ship is in front of me somewhere.


In The Fog